But anyway, in my apartment building, apparently thinking was a quick thing and the rest of the day was devoted to laundry. I ran into at least half of the apartment building in the laundry room in the cellar.
Sundays are prime CM visiting time since almost everything else is closed. However, one cannot be in a merry CM mood and simultaneously penitent, therefore the bulk of the Xmas markets are closed. However, a limited few recognize that you can get your thinking out of the way early with proper planning, so they open at 18.00 on that Sunday. If you are optimizing your CM experience and visiting as many as possible, you may be tempted to visit one of these open markets on that day. However, dear reader, it is not recommended for the faint of heart.
Last year I made the trek out to Aachen on this day. At the time it made perfect sense. Aachen is an hour away by train near the Belgian border, so it's a haul. Further, all the other markets are closed, so what a great opportunity to visit this one that is by itself and not near others that I also need to visit. Unfortunately, the rest of Nordrhein-Westfalen felt the same and made the same trip. Without a doubt, this was the most crowded CM I visited last year and it wore down some of my Xmas spirit. Therefore, I skipped Sunday this year and put the energy into Tuesday instead.
Planning your own holiday visit? As this is my fourth year experiencing the magic, here is the wisdom I pass unto you.
--Plan where you want to go. My favorite site to easily see all at a glance in English: http://www.germany-christmas-market.org.uk/cities&dates1.htm
--Plan for off-peak times, in particular if you go with children, older people or those averse to German crowds (such as yours truly who still struggles to understand why Germans have no spacial reasoning, or in other words, why must every German bump into me en route between point A and B?)
--The best off-peak time for larger markets tend to be non-weekends, or near opening/closing hours on the weekends.
--Consider the tiny markets as those are often full of Xmas spirit. If you know some locals, they can often direct you to small unadvertised neighborhood markets that you would otherwise miss. One of my favorites remains the undiscovered Koeln Deutz market with around 9 stalls. It's a 15 minute walk over the bridge from the Alt Stadt, but since it is not advertised it's more of a local thing. They have fine Glühwein, a special hut for the Xmas storyteller with announced story time, and the market is decorated to the nines with children's artwork.
So back to Cologne Rudolphplatz on Tuesday night. It's a small market with around 60 stands, including two for Glühwein. The market is next to an old castle-like wall which gives it an easy, non-city feel even though you are directly in the city. There is a giant Santa statue that is two or three stories tall and in his hand is a live pine tree, the size that you would decorate in your home.All over the market is a lot of yellow lighting, so it contributes to the soft, quiet mood. Around the perimeter, where there are fences, they've lined them with live pine trees to give it even more of a non-city, tucked away feel. Finally, on top of many of the huts are plastic in figures in motion, a little kitschy, like a plastic Kmart who is lovingly packed up in bubble wrap and brought out each Xmas for tradition's sake. They seem to relate to fairy tales and it appeared that people were walking around just to look at them rather than what the stalls were selling. I was enjoying a Glühwein standing near one that was three elves that were carpenters. One elf was sawing a piece of wood, one waving a latern. At the elves' feet was an old sleeping elf. Repeatedly, as people walked by I would hear in both German and English 'what is what one?' 'I'm not sure.' I was sans camera, but I may make a special trip back to capture this one for your guesses.
Please keep the recommendations coming of any special CMs I should visit...







